BACK TO PARADISE
With this last story, it is perhaps a good way to present myself as a tourist. No more pen and notepad that accompanied my every move. This time, I really enjoyed my trip. And what was the best way to do this? Be a tourist on a honeymoon! Yep! That was one of the greatest perks of my research job. I knew exactly where to bring my wife, Lily, and make her love me more. She was expecting some sort of a paradise and I brought her to my tiny piece of paradise - to that place where I got stranded but had some of the greatest days of my life - Palawan.
I sometimes read romance novels with the lead characters enjoying their shared moments on mountains, jungles and vast seas. I also wanted our honeymoon to be different from millions of couples that go through the same rite. Besides, Lily and I were going to spend the rest of our lives sleeping with each other. So why not put some great twist on our getting-to-know-you-better days?
But before jumping into that adventure, I had to psychologically prepare my wife to be. I told her, "Be ready to explore the town, do lots of walks, experience heat, humidity, and most specially, food!" In fact, one of the most memorable aspects of our trip was the number of restaurants we visited. Seafood galore! Lots of them.
No shame. So what if all the passengers looked at us when we asked the stewardess to take our photo inside the plane? It was our honeymoon and we were licensed to ask anybody to take our photo hugging each other. Our tripod, though was a great piece of equipment to capture our loving moments (Got the tip? Don’t go on a honeymoon without a tripod, and a camera).
Upon arrival in Palawan, the first order of the day was to check-in to the cool comforts of a local hotel. Some rest (and private moments) and we were ready to paint, err to explore the city of Puerto Princesa. One thing with many areas in the Philippines is the convenience of many tricycles to bring you to any nook and cranny of a town or even a city. So we hopped on a tricycle and went to Ka Lui Restaurant, an eclectic and yet, one of the best restaurants in the city. There is a protocol that must be strictly followed in this dining place. All shoes, including sandals and slippers must be removed before the dining entrance. Those unlucky first time visitors with holes in their socks must have sweated profusely in this area. I then led my wife to a small corner where the table was less than a foot high and the seats made of palay sacks. Dinner was a sumptuous seafood delight that we enjoyed so much. I forgot to order the special dessert of the restaurant which was made up of assorted fruits and a huge banana placed in the middle of the plate and exquisitely carved to make the women guests giggle.
Day 2 was spent on restaurant hopping. We had a nice lunch at Casa Linda where the dining area was set amidst a tropical garden. For our dinner, we relied on some recommendations on other DOT guys. My research work usually brought me to isolated beaches, caves and mountains, and I seldom tasted good life in the city. Somebody said that there was a nice restaurant near the coast and it was only a tricycle ride away. Fine, we got on a tricycle and asked the driver to take us to the restaurant. He said that the fare would be P30. “What?!” I asked. He immediately quipped that the site was 20 minutes away from the city proper. I looked at my wife and weighed if I was going to bring her somewhere which I did not have any idea of; and in the middle of the night at that. “Well, heck!” It was an adventure, so why not go all the way?
Puerto Princesa had streetlights, but only along the major roads and only in the city proper. The noisy tricycle traveled over (very) dark roads with nary a silhouette of any house or trees along the way. “Wait! I saw a small, lighted sign that says, ‘Vietnamese Restaurant’ Uhmm, this city is really interesting.” After 15 minutes of monotonous, but fast-paced ride, we entered a subdivision (…..?) and drove over some really rough roads. By that time, I became a little worried and wondered how long it would take to walk back to the hotel. Some flicker of lights in the distance kept me somewhat positively charged. And true enough, those lights turned out to be hundreds of tiny bulbs endraping an entire restaurant located by the sea and mangrove forests. Some foreign guests were already having their dinner. We took our place by the sea and ordered our entrée. For only the two of us, we must have ordered something that can feed eight people. A plateful of prawns, grilled fish, meat, dessert, the waiters kept smiling as we enumerated our orders. For us, it was a bacchanalian night (minus the wine) added with some air of romance provided by the place.
I found out that going back was not a problem in this extreme hideaway. The restaurant had a telephone hotline with another city hotel which dispatched a tricycle to pick us up.
Day three was the highlight of our adventure. This was going to be a visit to my paradise. This time, I brought my Eve with me. I made a mistake, though. Because I did not want my wife to be uncomfortable for the 2.5 hours of jeepney ride, we hired a van for a day trip to the area which would cost us P2,500. Actually, my original plan was to take a commuter jeepney and stay overnight near the St. Paul’s Park and be back in the city the following day. Alas! We had an entirely different itinerary.
Luckily, another couple on a honeymoon, Dante and Bec, were also going to the park and we were able to spread the expenses. Some handshakes and the two couples were then off to see the sights in the countryside. Since I bragged to the other couple that I had been to the area, they decided to have a taste of what I was about to serve to my wife. Half of the trip was the usual tourist way. Upon arrival in the village of Sabang, we got a permit to enter the park and paid the usual entrance fee, then hopped on a banca for a 20-minute ride to the cave area. I was quite surprised in the recent changes to the park. From gas lamps, they were already using battery-powered flashlights. They also provided life vests and helmets. I thought for a while that the park had indeed become a world-class destination. After some usual “larawanan” (picture-taking), the two couples then proceeded to enter the maw of the cave. Inside, my three companions got awed by the huge limestone formations and the intimidating darkness. Me? It felt nice to be back in that cave and once again smell the tangy aroma of guano. The three kept asking me what was the urine-like smell inside the cave. I kept my mouth shut.
Two kilometers inside and our boat made a u-turn and went back to the docking area. Lunch was at the picnic site. The monkeys were still there, but they had become comfortable with humans. The park personnel kept warning us not to leave our food and other things (including my wife?) unattended. Those tailed cousins of ours might just grab our food or cameras.
After a hurried and paranoid-filled lunch, we were then ready for the other half of the day’s adventure – the four-kilometer forest walk. Actually, we could have ridden in the comforts of the boat back to Sabang, but we would miss seeing the full beauty of the national park. Lily was ready for the walk, but the other couple was more of a question mark. I just assured them that it was going to be fun. Besides, I guaranteed them that they will forever relish that part of their honeymoon.
Fifteen minutes into the trail portion called the Monkey Trail and everybody was gasping for breath. The steep inclines and hundreds of wooden steps were telling our puny group to head back. Although they did not say a word of complaint, my companions eyes were filled with questions and worried look. I told them to take it easy and rest as frequent as they wanted, that it was really a fun activity. So we walked along the Monkey Trail where we encountered no monkeys at all. The more interesting part of the trail was the unique vegetation that grew in the nutrient-starved limestone forest. Instead of the usual tropical trees, cacti dominated the greenery. Some plants were able to grow on limestone indentions with barely a cup of soil to provide a cactus some nutrients. I tried to explain everything to them while they were in the middle of hyperventilation session.
On with the trail! After an hour of walking, we passed through a beach cove dominated covered with golden sand. More walking in the forest then we passed through the main ranger station and the cottage where I stayed in the early days. Back then, the fallen leaves in the main station were collected to keep the place neat. But this time, the leaves were left in the same place where they fell. I asked the ranger why they let it happen. The story was that the U.S. Ambassador visited the place and lectured them that the leaves would become nutrients of the soil. You know, that “circle of life” thing. So, instead of tidying up the place, they followed the Ambassador’s lecture. By golly! Haven’t they heard of a compost pit?
So more walking and perspiring for the group and some fun and guilt on my part as we tackled the remaining one kilometer inside the forest. At one point, Lily sided up to me and reported that one of our companions asked the hubby, “Ganito ba talaga ang ginagawa sa honeymoon?” (Is this really done in a honeymoon?) We just chuckled and hoped that they would not curse us for the rest of their married life.
The last kilometer of the walk was perhaps the most rewarding of the trek. We walked over a kilometer of beach area with the waves gently lapping the gray sands. On our front was an impressive mountain with intact forests. On our left was a combination of a forest’s edge and swaying coconut trees. As we walked, I imagined ourselves as characters in a romance novel set into an idyllic and far away paradise. We savored the wind, the views, each other’s company, and Lily and I walked some distance away from Dante and Bec. They too, deserved their own romantic walk.
Was the effort worth the reward? I got thumbs up not only from the other couple, but most specially from my wife. One great Pogi point!
I sometimes read romance novels with the lead characters enjoying their shared moments on mountains, jungles and vast seas. I also wanted our honeymoon to be different from millions of couples that go through the same rite. Besides, Lily and I were going to spend the rest of our lives sleeping with each other. So why not put some great twist on our getting-to-know-you-better days?
But before jumping into that adventure, I had to psychologically prepare my wife to be. I told her, "Be ready to explore the town, do lots of walks, experience heat, humidity, and most specially, food!" In fact, one of the most memorable aspects of our trip was the number of restaurants we visited. Seafood galore! Lots of them.
No shame. So what if all the passengers looked at us when we asked the stewardess to take our photo inside the plane? It was our honeymoon and we were licensed to ask anybody to take our photo hugging each other. Our tripod, though was a great piece of equipment to capture our loving moments (Got the tip? Don’t go on a honeymoon without a tripod, and a camera).
Upon arrival in Palawan, the first order of the day was to check-in to the cool comforts of a local hotel. Some rest (and private moments) and we were ready to paint, err to explore the city of Puerto Princesa. One thing with many areas in the Philippines is the convenience of many tricycles to bring you to any nook and cranny of a town or even a city. So we hopped on a tricycle and went to Ka Lui Restaurant, an eclectic and yet, one of the best restaurants in the city. There is a protocol that must be strictly followed in this dining place. All shoes, including sandals and slippers must be removed before the dining entrance. Those unlucky first time visitors with holes in their socks must have sweated profusely in this area. I then led my wife to a small corner where the table was less than a foot high and the seats made of palay sacks. Dinner was a sumptuous seafood delight that we enjoyed so much. I forgot to order the special dessert of the restaurant which was made up of assorted fruits and a huge banana placed in the middle of the plate and exquisitely carved to make the women guests giggle.
Day 2 was spent on restaurant hopping. We had a nice lunch at Casa Linda where the dining area was set amidst a tropical garden. For our dinner, we relied on some recommendations on other DOT guys. My research work usually brought me to isolated beaches, caves and mountains, and I seldom tasted good life in the city. Somebody said that there was a nice restaurant near the coast and it was only a tricycle ride away. Fine, we got on a tricycle and asked the driver to take us to the restaurant. He said that the fare would be P30. “What?!” I asked. He immediately quipped that the site was 20 minutes away from the city proper. I looked at my wife and weighed if I was going to bring her somewhere which I did not have any idea of; and in the middle of the night at that. “Well, heck!” It was an adventure, so why not go all the way?
Puerto Princesa had streetlights, but only along the major roads and only in the city proper. The noisy tricycle traveled over (very) dark roads with nary a silhouette of any house or trees along the way. “Wait! I saw a small, lighted sign that says, ‘Vietnamese Restaurant’ Uhmm, this city is really interesting.” After 15 minutes of monotonous, but fast-paced ride, we entered a subdivision (…..?) and drove over some really rough roads. By that time, I became a little worried and wondered how long it would take to walk back to the hotel. Some flicker of lights in the distance kept me somewhat positively charged. And true enough, those lights turned out to be hundreds of tiny bulbs endraping an entire restaurant located by the sea and mangrove forests. Some foreign guests were already having their dinner. We took our place by the sea and ordered our entrée. For only the two of us, we must have ordered something that can feed eight people. A plateful of prawns, grilled fish, meat, dessert, the waiters kept smiling as we enumerated our orders. For us, it was a bacchanalian night (minus the wine) added with some air of romance provided by the place.
I found out that going back was not a problem in this extreme hideaway. The restaurant had a telephone hotline with another city hotel which dispatched a tricycle to pick us up.
Day three was the highlight of our adventure. This was going to be a visit to my paradise. This time, I brought my Eve with me. I made a mistake, though. Because I did not want my wife to be uncomfortable for the 2.5 hours of jeepney ride, we hired a van for a day trip to the area which would cost us P2,500. Actually, my original plan was to take a commuter jeepney and stay overnight near the St. Paul’s Park and be back in the city the following day. Alas! We had an entirely different itinerary.
Luckily, another couple on a honeymoon, Dante and Bec, were also going to the park and we were able to spread the expenses. Some handshakes and the two couples were then off to see the sights in the countryside. Since I bragged to the other couple that I had been to the area, they decided to have a taste of what I was about to serve to my wife. Half of the trip was the usual tourist way. Upon arrival in the village of Sabang, we got a permit to enter the park and paid the usual entrance fee, then hopped on a banca for a 20-minute ride to the cave area. I was quite surprised in the recent changes to the park. From gas lamps, they were already using battery-powered flashlights. They also provided life vests and helmets. I thought for a while that the park had indeed become a world-class destination. After some usual “larawanan” (picture-taking), the two couples then proceeded to enter the maw of the cave. Inside, my three companions got awed by the huge limestone formations and the intimidating darkness. Me? It felt nice to be back in that cave and once again smell the tangy aroma of guano. The three kept asking me what was the urine-like smell inside the cave. I kept my mouth shut.
Two kilometers inside and our boat made a u-turn and went back to the docking area. Lunch was at the picnic site. The monkeys were still there, but they had become comfortable with humans. The park personnel kept warning us not to leave our food and other things (including my wife?) unattended. Those tailed cousins of ours might just grab our food or cameras.
After a hurried and paranoid-filled lunch, we were then ready for the other half of the day’s adventure – the four-kilometer forest walk. Actually, we could have ridden in the comforts of the boat back to Sabang, but we would miss seeing the full beauty of the national park. Lily was ready for the walk, but the other couple was more of a question mark. I just assured them that it was going to be fun. Besides, I guaranteed them that they will forever relish that part of their honeymoon.
Fifteen minutes into the trail portion called the Monkey Trail and everybody was gasping for breath. The steep inclines and hundreds of wooden steps were telling our puny group to head back. Although they did not say a word of complaint, my companions eyes were filled with questions and worried look. I told them to take it easy and rest as frequent as they wanted, that it was really a fun activity. So we walked along the Monkey Trail where we encountered no monkeys at all. The more interesting part of the trail was the unique vegetation that grew in the nutrient-starved limestone forest. Instead of the usual tropical trees, cacti dominated the greenery. Some plants were able to grow on limestone indentions with barely a cup of soil to provide a cactus some nutrients. I tried to explain everything to them while they were in the middle of hyperventilation session.
On with the trail! After an hour of walking, we passed through a beach cove dominated covered with golden sand. More walking in the forest then we passed through the main ranger station and the cottage where I stayed in the early days. Back then, the fallen leaves in the main station were collected to keep the place neat. But this time, the leaves were left in the same place where they fell. I asked the ranger why they let it happen. The story was that the U.S. Ambassador visited the place and lectured them that the leaves would become nutrients of the soil. You know, that “circle of life” thing. So, instead of tidying up the place, they followed the Ambassador’s lecture. By golly! Haven’t they heard of a compost pit?
So more walking and perspiring for the group and some fun and guilt on my part as we tackled the remaining one kilometer inside the forest. At one point, Lily sided up to me and reported that one of our companions asked the hubby, “Ganito ba talaga ang ginagawa sa honeymoon?” (Is this really done in a honeymoon?) We just chuckled and hoped that they would not curse us for the rest of their married life.
The last kilometer of the walk was perhaps the most rewarding of the trek. We walked over a kilometer of beach area with the waves gently lapping the gray sands. On our front was an impressive mountain with intact forests. On our left was a combination of a forest’s edge and swaying coconut trees. As we walked, I imagined ourselves as characters in a romance novel set into an idyllic and far away paradise. We savored the wind, the views, each other’s company, and Lily and I walked some distance away from Dante and Bec. They too, deserved their own romantic walk.
Was the effort worth the reward? I got thumbs up not only from the other couple, but most specially from my wife. One great Pogi point!
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