16 DAYS ON THE ROAD

The Department of Tourism once had a big project called the Philippine Tourism Highway. It was geared towards promoting travel around the country using the national highway straddling the entire country. From Manila looping around Luzon down to the Visayas and Mindanao (we ended the highway to Davao City). Would you believe that one of our trivial but major problem was finding out the exact name of the highway system? We talked to a lot of people at the Department of Public Works and Highways and NOBODY could give the official name! Now we know that you and I have a choice. These are: the Pan-Philippine Highway, Maharlika Highway, Japan-Philippine Highway, or Philippine Tourism Highway, or even President Estrada Tourism Highway (why not the GMA Tourism Highway?). Pick your choice. I was one of the project leaders who were tasked to lead a bunch of guys consisting of personnel from different government agencies to travel the half portion of the system down south. Another team tackled the Luzon circuit. Our job? To assess the highway system alongside with tourist facilities needs and find out all those potential tourist attractions along the way. There were two vans that traveled on each circuit. One was the tourist van (they went to discover the tourist attractions); and the other was the highway van (guys from the highways, tourism, telecommunications and transportation departments had no choice but to endure each other’s company). This van looked at the road and seaport condition, and we ogled at the telephone and electric lines and poles lined up along the roads. Yes, we even looked at each kilometer marker as we traveled. This story is like a diary. Not much form, only details. So this is how we fared:

DAY 1
Take off. Press release at a hotel.
Proceeded to zero kilometer marker at the Luneta
Secretary Gabor and some media bided us goodbye
Smiled for the camera; still clean-shaven
Traveled via south superhighway
Had a sumptuous lunch in Sto. Tomas, Batangas (P1,500 for 15 pax)
Stopped-over at Calauag, Quezon

DAY 2
Traveled to Bicol. First stop at the Aimee Irene Twin Falls at Sta. Elena. Nice waterfall. Only with unsightly concrete improvements

Saw a wide concrete road to the town of Capalonga. Wanted to check it out. Good thing my companions dissuaded me. Found out later that concrete road was only one kilometer long. What followed next was 18 kilometers of really bad trail.

Next stop, San Jose Beach in Talisay. A loooong stretch of beach with no cottages. A good place for surfing and body boarding, Proceeded to Daet and saw the famous Bagasbas Beach. Another place for surfing and body boarding.

DAY 3
To Camarines Sur. Checked out Libmanan Caves National Park. Only two kilometers of lateral road to the site. Van almost got stuck and fell off a shallow ravine. Libmanan has huge caves. Saw concrete kiosks that were appropriate in city parks, not in a natural area! Stubbles start showing.

DAY 4
To Legaspi City. Imposing view of Mayon Volcano. Visited hoyop-hoyopan cave. Colleagues prayed at Daraga Church which was made of volcanic tuff and rocks. Treated to lunch by a local friend of my companion. Drank some beer at a local club.

DAY 5
To Sorsogon. Greeted warmly by Mrs. Duran, president of provincial tourism council. Had a grand tour of Bulusan Lake and Volcano. Saw rugged coastlines and went to Barcelona Church. Interesting. The church also served as a fort with windows built for double purpose: one to let the sunshine in and the other to keep raiders away. Only it was finished when raidings also ended.

Irosin Church in Sorsogon

DAY 6
By boat to Allen. The vans left us and we went to the ro-ro (roll on – roll off) boat. Several buses were also fitted inside the ship. Travel time was two hours and there was nothing to do. Arrived in Allen. Vans and regional tourism personnel greeted us. Went around town and saw the “Bato ni Toto” or growing rock by the roadside. They say that it was an ordinary rock that continued to grow. Now it’s bigger than a house. Also saw Bruno the Mummy. Yes, it was a dead man that did not disintegrate. Dressed like a “santo” and wife asked for some donation for picture taking. Also saw a cemetery that was eaten by the sea. Crosses and tombstones jut out of the shallow water.

Ang Bato ni Toto

Heard that Catarman had potential. Good road and one nice beach but many attractions are in the islands and mountains. Crossed a road where we looked right and left first, then upwards. A plane might be landing on the road cum airport.

DAY 7
A very nice beach. Needed to answer call of nature and surprised at stalactites actually forming at the comfort room ceiling! Saw one small but nice waterfall near the roadside. Shown by the locals the rivers and trails leading to cave and waterfalls sites. Indulged at the view of Maqueda Bay. One of the most scenic along the highway.

DAY 8
Catbalogan. Same thing as Calbayog. Attractions are in the forests, can’t visit them. Still seeing Maqueda Bay. Had the most delicious lapu-lapu (grouper). Stayed late at night doing karaoke. Member-writer said that he must go back to Manila. Emergency, he said. Can’t do anything so let him go.

DAY 9
Crossed San Juanico Bridge. Stopped for a few minutes in the middle and waited for a truck to pass by. Felt the intensity seven tremor (shallow, but exciting). One companion found out that her mother died in Manila. Cried a lot and went back home. Two down. Remaining group stayed at Leyte Park Hotel. Visited Sto. Nino Shrine, the one built by Imelda Marcos. Went bare feet inside and saw great opulence, but signs of wear and tear evident. Visited Mc Arthur Landing site in Palo. Attempted to come near the statues in the middle of a lagoon but flooring was very slippery. Passed it up. Hill 522, overlooking large bay area and was heavily bombarded by Americans. Lots of Japanese soldiers must have died there. Photographer backed out of hiking the hill (it was 522 meters high). Volunteered to hike up and bring the camera and almost regretted it. Saw foxholes and concrete bunkers (or bomb shelters?)

Nighttime. The resort had a swimming pool so we took the opportunity. Later, went to the Karaoke bar. Waited for the mic for two hours, sang one song then went out to call it a night. Beard and moustache must have been 1/2 inch long.

DAY 10
Traveled the length of Southern Leyte. Not much seen and proceeded to Liloan town where ro-ro ferries to Mindanao dock. A very small and sleepy town. Not much seen. The tourist van was late. They said they got lost looking for a published attraction. They did not find it and concluded that it does not exist. Nobody they asked knew of such place.

DAY 11
Crossed the sea to Surigao del Norte. Saw continuous length of mountains of Southern Leyte. Kept thinking that there must be something interesting in those mountains. Looking out to sea, saw maybe a hundred small fishing bancas scattered all over the place. It was like a grand parade of paraws. Not much to do so played Pusoy Dos instead. Was given some words by a crew for playing cards. Had to hide bet monies.

Arrived in Surigao City and greeted by another set of local tourism officers. Great local foods were served.

Traveled good length of Surigao del Norte. Met with the Mayor of Kitcherao, one town where one can see the scenic Mainit Lake, one of the largest bodies of water in Mindanao. The mayor kept saying they get good sili (eel) from the lake. It was near lunchtime and we waited with excitement for the sili. We were served chicken.

Passed by a very nice waterfall near the road in Kitcharao.

Proceeded towards Agusan del Norte and made a very long stop in Cabadbaran. Very nice town. Lots of American and Japanese made schools. Old houses and the church within a church. The town was rustic and clean. Wanted to stay longer but had a schedule to meet. Proceeded to Butuan City. Checked in a local hotel, had one round of beer, sang a lot of old songs with Kiko, Joey and Boy Flores then called it a night.

DAY 12
Our van missed a lot. The guys in the tourist van were entertained by a local boys’ choir in Butuan City and saw some nice local attractions. Our van went to the port and we saw some huge ships. A little bit lucky when we saw a local museum with the remnants of a balangay, one of the first ships that brought in Filipino ancestors. Had to get back to Cabadbaran and take some photos of more attractions.

DAY 13
Went to the town of Magallanes and saw a shrine. Locals say that Magellan actually landed here and not in Limasawa. The site was called Masao and had lots of water and food. Limasawa, being a small island, had very little of them. Common sense should tell us that one would prefer a place with food and water. Honestly, I can’t side with anybody.

Also saw the very tall Toog Tree. A very hard tree that early loggers failed to cut down. Their chainsaws were no match to the steel-like hardness of the tree.

Saw another tree that the loggers failed to get, the Bitaog Tree. It took about 11 of us to encircle the trunk of the Bitaog tree.

DAY 14
Passed by the vicinity of Agusan Marsh, one the largest wetlands in RP. Could have done some boating and seen some migratory birds, but no time. Bought instead some marang, local banana and durian from fruit stalls along the road. Very late for dinner. Locals prepared lots of food and waited for us till 8:00 P.M. The dinner was great and plenty. Had a short discussion with the locals and used the house of a local politician as our hotel.

DAY 15
Our second to the last day. Volunteered to wake up early for a trip to a local river leading to a waterfall. Took a small banca with one horsepower engine. That morning was magical. Fog enshrouded the river that was flanked by mountains. Was very happy.

Went back to politician’s house and was late for breakfast. Entire team was getting ready to roll. Finally reached our last leg. My beard and moustache were about two inches long already. Met by Frank and Denden, the local tourism officers. Not much time. Had to move fast. Went around the city’s tourist attractions. Special for the day was the Philippine Eagle Camp. Was surprised at the nice landscape. Saw lots of rare and exotic animals. Gazed in awe at Pag-asa, the first success story of Philippine Eagle artificial insemination.

Went to a local ihaw-ihaw for a grand last supper.

DAY 16
Continued city tour and did some shopping for marang and durian (again). Guys were like crazy, bought crates upon crates of pomelos. Got some local clothes and souvenir items. Went to the airport (nice airport!) and boarded a plane.

Back to reality (Manila). Missus surprised me at the Manila airport. Saw the beard and moustache and made a bad face, but kissed me anyway.

Went home and immediately shaved my face.

The end.